Originally, I hadn't planned an impromptu Camino de Santiago trek. However, feeling Overwhelmed by the sorrow of my dog Bear's passing, I sought an escape. My friend Miranda suggested the journey and I reached out to an old friend in Paris who enthusiastically agreed to join me. Without hesitation, I booked a flight to Paris and packed my bags within two hours. Uncertain of what lies ahead, I embarked on this journey with one clear purpose: to find answers.

Imagine starting your journey in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a quaint French town nestled in the Pyrenees. Cobbled streets and colorful houses bid you farewell as you begin your ascent, a symbolic shedding of the familiar before stepping onto the ancient path. The landscape soon unfolds its beauty - rolling hills adorned with vineyards and olive groves, quaint villages with timeworn churches, and bustling towns teeming with pilgrim life.

St Jean Pied de Port Pilgrim Office is a must-visit for any Camino de Santiago novice. As a first-time pilgrim, I was overwhelmed with excitement and uncertainty. This friendly office became my guiding star.

Helpful volunteers provided invaluable information about routes, accommodations, and essential gear. I got my pilgrim passport, the iconic credential, and received expert advice on preparing for the journey. Their enthusiasm was contagious, fueling my determination to embark on this incredible adventure.

Our first day began later than planned due to a gear shopping stop. We equipped ourselves with the necessary items for the trek: raincoat, clothes, hiking shoes (realizing my shoes were no match for the wet conditions, I had to purchase a new pair), gloves, and more. With 25 kilometers as our daily target, we opted for a 10-kilometer taxi ride in order to reach our destination before nightfall. Despite the delayed start, covering 15 kilometers walk on our first day was a promising beginning.

After a challenging 15-kilometer trek, we finally reached Roncesvalles, our first Spanish town. Tonight, we'll rest at La Posada de Roncesvalles. Thankfully, our backpacks arrived at the hotel ahead of us.

Each morning, we had to drop off our luggage at the reception by 8 AM (8€/each) for the luggage delivery to the next accommodation. Also, to prevent blisters, I applied tape to my feet before setting off.

The trail from Roncesvalles to Zubiri is a verdant escape. Rolling hills, lush forests, and babbling brooks accompany pilgrims on this stretch of the Camino. The air is crisp, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. As the path winds its way through quaint Basque villages, the warmth of local hospitality is evident. Each step brings a sense of peace and connection to the natural world. While the terrain can be challenging at times, the rewards are immense.

Reaching Zubiri felt like a significant milestone. The quaint village offered a respite from the trail. That evening, Suseia Hostel proved to be more than just accommodation. The communal dinner brought together pilgrims from diverse backgrounds. At dinner, we shared a table with an Australian father and daughter who had conquered the Camino a decade prior. Their insights were invaluable, especially their recommendation to use Alsa, Spain's long-distance bus service. This tip proved incredibly helpful during my journey. As the night deepened, it was clear that the Camino was as much about the journey within as it was about the path ahead.

Zubiri to Pamplona: A River's Embrace

Leaving the charming village of Zubiri, the Camino follows the Arga River, creating a serene and picturesque path. The journey unfolds through a mix of lush forests, rolling hills, and charming Basque villages. As the trail nears Pamplona, the urban landscape begins to emerge, offering a contrast to the rural tranquility. The anticipation of reaching this historic city adds an extra spring to the pilgrim's step.

The city's vibrant energy is a stark contrast to the quiet Camino paths. After days of walking, it feels incredible to explore bustling streets and immerse myself in rich history. Pamplona offers a well-deserved reward for the journey so far.

To expedite our Camino from 30 to 14 days, we opted to rent a car and drive from Pamplona to Leon. From there, we'd continue our pilgrimage by taking an ALSA bus to Cacabelos. Combining driving and bus travel would cover 501 kilometers in about 8 hours, significantly shortening our journey.

The walk from Cacabelos to Valcarce is a journey through rolling vineyards and picturesque landscapes. The Camino here is less crowded, offering a quieter pilgrimage experience. The air is filled with the sweet scent of grapes, and the region's renowned wines are a tempting reward at the end of each day. As the path climbs steadily, the views become increasingly breathtaking, making every step worthwhile.

Approaching Villafranca del Bierzo is a delightful surprise. This charming town, nestled amidst rolling hills and vineyards, offers a welcome respite. Its historic center, with its cobbled streets and quaint squares, invites exploration. As a pilgrim, it's a perfect place to rest and recharge before tackling the upcoming challenges. The town's warm atmosphere and delicious local cuisine make it a memorable stop on the Camino.

The Alto Pradela variant is a challenging detour that begins with a steep, 400-meter ascent, extending the journey by 1.5 kilometers compared to the historical route. Before descending sharply into Trabadelo, the path winds through the quaint village of Pradela.

I advise against this option for inexperienced pilgrims or those aiming to cover the entire Villafranca to O Cebreiro stage in one day. The climb is brutal, and ample water is essential. Trust me, I learned this the hard way!

The grueling Alto Pradela route took its toll, I unfortunately sustained a leg injury that forced me to pause my Camino journey. Determined to continue, I researched alternative options. My plan: a three-day recovery in Lugo, accessible by ALSA bus, followed by a train ride to Sarria to reunite with my friend and hit the trail together.

I spent 3 relaxing days in Lugo, which helped my feet recover significantly. I enjoyed leisurely sightseeing each day and indulged in delicious local cuisine. Lugo is a charming city. On my final day, I took a bus to Sarria. Carrying both backpacks while walking over 30+ minutes from the bus stop to the hotel to meet my friend proved to be quite a challenge.

Continuing our journey from Camino de Santiago I, Part II explores the profound experiences and diverse paths defining this pilgrimage.

The path is alive with many people. Backpacks of every size and color bob along the dusty trail. It's a constant stream of walkers, some alone, others in small groups. A chorus of "Buen camino!" fills the air, a friendly greeting passed back and forth like a baton. I smile and nod, feeling a sense of camaraderie with these strangers united by a common goal. The energy is infectious, pushing me forward with each step.

Spotting the dogs ahead, I quickened my pace to match theirs. A pang of longing washed over me as I imagined Bear, my own faithful companion, trotting by my side on this Camino adventure.

The simplest dishes often pack the biggest flavor punch. My sausage omelet today was a case in point - an uncomplicated meal that will linger in my memory long after the trail.

After a long, wet day of walking, our weary feet are grateful for the respite.

The relentless rain turned the Camino into a muddy slog. Every step was a challenge as soaked boots squelched and wind whipped against rain-soaked clothes. The once inviting landscape was now a dreary blur.

The rain was a constant companion on the trek from Portomarin to Palas de Rei. Just when I thought it couldn't get worse, a sudden hailstorm erupted. With no shelter in sight, we were caught in the open, shivering and drenched.

We finally reached Palas de Rei, drenched and starving. Luckily, Pulperia a Nosa Terra, a fantastic restaurant next to our hotel, came to the rescue with a delicious dinner. The day's ordeal ended on a high note when we discovered a foot bath bucket in our room - perfect for our aching feet!

The path from Palas de Rei to Melide was a muddy gauntlet. With each step, boots sank deeper, creating a sucking sound that echoed in the quiet morning. The once familiar landscape was transformed into a slippery, brown expanse. Every muscle ached as I fought to keep my balance and push forward, one muddy footstep at a time.

Despite the persistent rain, the walk from Palas de Rei to Melide offered moments of beauty. Towering trees formed a lush green canopy, providing a temporary escape from the wet. In a surprising twist, a flock of sheep emerged from the mist, their woolly coats glistening in the rain. The sight brought a smile to my face, a small victory against the dreary weather.

Melide was a welcome respite from the trail. After a quick laundry session, we treated ourselves to a hearty dinner. But the highlight of the day was undoubtedly the churros con chocolate. This decadent treat had been calling my name since the Camino began, and I was thrilled to finally indulge. As I savored the crispy, sugary churros dipped in rich chocolate, all the day's weariness melted away.

A planned rest day turned into an unplanned walking adventure. Feeling under the weather and physically depleted, I'd hoped to bypass today's stage with a bus or taxi, but transportation options were scarce. With no hotel check-in before 3pm, walking became the only viable option.

The rain continued its relentless patter as we made our way from Melide to Arzúa. Today's stage was mercifully short, a result of a planning mishap. A miscalculation had led us to choose a stop earlier than intended. Fortunately, the shorter distance proved to be a blessing in disguise.

The downpour had transformed the familiar path into a raging torrent. Faced with a swollen river, we hesitated. Pilgrims before us had waded through, shoes and all, but the current looked fierce. To remove our shoes was to risk the unknown, while keeping them on risked ruining them and making the rest of the walk miserable. A dilemma unfolded before us, each option fraught with uncertainty.

I was grateful for the unexpected shorter journey to Arzúa. Feeling under the weather, I realized the reduced walking distance was a blessing in disguise. As I trudged through the rain, a sense of peace washed over me. It felt as though a higher power had intervened, tailoring the day's path to my needs. With each step, I felt a deepening connection to the Camino and a growing trust in the journey's unfolding.

Nestled in the charming town of Arzua, Casa Rural Pazo de Sedor stands out as an absolute gem among our Camino accommodations. This tranquil retreat offers a luxurious escape from the trail, with its picturesque setting and impeccable service. It's the perfect place to recharge after a long day of walking.

My miscalculation on the previous stage left us facing a daunting 37-kilometer trek to Santiago. Realizing this was an impossible task in a single day, we sought an alternative. A morning bus to O Pedrouzo offered a lifeline. With a more manageable 19-kilometer stretch ahead, we adjusted our plans, eager to reach the final destination.

The relentless rain had transformed the Camino into a water park, at least in parts. Today's trek from O Pedrouzo to Santiago was no exception. We encountered a river-like dip in the path. With a touch of gallows humor, we joked about the potential for a spontaneous whitewater rafting adventure.

The night before reaching Santiago, I had a vivid dream involving my beloved Yorkie, Bear, and my late dog, Sparky. In this surreal vision, their faces emerged from a wooden box. Bear, unusually, was sitting upright, his fur a striking blend of black, brown, and red, mirroring the autumnal hues of a majestic mountain behind him. As I watched, his form dwindled until it vanished.

Intriguingly, the next day, I encountered a mountain that mirrored the colors of Bear's fur in my dream. It was an unexpected sight, given the predominantly green landscapes of the Camino. This uncanny coincidence has left me pondering the dream's significance.

Dear Bear, perhaps a part of you has walked with me on this journey. Your spirit, your memory, and your unconditional love have been my constant companions. Maybe that mountain was a sign of your presence, a reminder of the incredible bond we shared. Wherever you are, know that you're deeply missed and eternally loved.

The final stretch from O Pedrouzo to Santiago was a bittersweet mix of exhilaration and exhaustion. With each step, anticipation grew as the iconic spires of the cathedral came into view. As we navigated the final kilometers, a burst of energy came from an unexpected source. A playful dog at a roadside house kept jumping and barking with enthusiasm. It was as if he were cheering us on, urging us forward with his boundless joy. 🙂

The final approach to Santiago was a whirlwind of emotions. Our first stop was the pilgrims' office to secure the coveted Compostela certificate before closing time. With the essential document in hand, we eagerly made our way to the magnificent Santiago Cathedral. A sense of accomplishment and awe washed over us as we stepped into this iconic place of worship, marking the culmination of our Camino journey.

Dinner was a much-needed respite after the rigors of the Camino. The percebes were a salty delight, the flounder perfectly cooked, and the scallops a tender treat. We paired these treasures with fried padron peppers and refreshing beer, creating a symphony of flavors. It was the perfect way to celebrate our Camino journey.

Our final day in Santiago was a delightful blend of indulgence and spirituality. We kicked off the morning with a decadent breakfast of churros and thick, rich chocolate, a perfect treat after the Camino's challenges. Later, we immersed ourselves in the cathedral's sacred atmosphere, attending the morning worship service. The experience was both humbling and uplifting, marking a fitting end to our pilgrimage.

El Papatorio was a delightful surprise. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service were matched only by the delicious food. Their signature dish, a mouthwatering octopus, was tender and flavorful. Paired with a local caña (Mahou is my favorite), it was the perfect lunch to celebrate our Camino journey.

• Tarta de Santiago (Spanish almond cake) : This almond cake is a local specialty, and it's incredibly flavorful and moist.
• Pastelería La Perla (Traditional butter and cinnamon cookies) : Their traditional butter and cinnamon cookies are simply divine. Flaky, buttery layers are infused with the warm spice of cinnamon, creating a perfect balance of flavors.

A Noiesa Casa de Comidas lived up to its stellar reviews. I indulged in the fried artichoke and eggplant, both of which were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The flavors were bold and satisfying, making it a memorable dining experience.

The Camino is a journey of self-discovery. With each step, you peel back layers of stress and routine, allowing introspection to blossom. I wholeheartedly encourage you to embark on this transformative journey. The Camino is more than just a walk; it's an invitation to connect with yourself, nature, and a global community of like-minded souls. Prepare to be challenged, inspired, and forever changed.