Summer Serenity: Kayaking the Russian River in Guerneville

Summer Serenity: Kayaking the Russian River in Guerneville

California Napa & Sonoma

There's something truly magical about a summer day spent on the Russian River in Guerneville, California. The warm sun on your skin, the gentle current guiding your way, and the lush redwood canopy overhead create an idyllic escape from the everyday. And for me, the best way to experience it all is from the peaceful vantage point of a kayak.

Guerneville, nestled amongst the towering redwoods, offers unparalleled access to the Russian River. Rental shops abound, making it easy to grab a kayak, paddle, and life jacket and set off on your adventure. The river here, especially in summer, is calm and slow-moving, making it perfect for all skill levels, from complete beginners to seasoned paddlers. You can opt for a leisurely out-and-back trip from Johnson's Beach, or arrange for a shuttle service to take you upstream for a longer, one-way float. Either way, you're in for a treat.

Kayak Rentals and River Adventures

At Johnson's Beach in Guerneville, We rent a double kayak for a full day at $100. During the summer months, when the dams are in place, you have the freedom to paddle both upriver and downriver, returning to Johnson's Beach at your leisure. However, later in the season when the dams are removed, the river transforms into a one-way journey. You'll embark on a scenic five-mile paddle downriver to Monte Rio, where a convenient shuttle service will be waiting to transport you back to Guerneville. Knowing we wouldn't have the energy to paddle back to Guerneville, we opted to return the kayak at Monte Rio instead. Three hours on the water had already worn us out!

Wildlife Wonders and Avian Encounters

As you glide silently through the water, the Russian River truly comes alive with wildlife. The summer months bring out a vibrant array of birds, and from the quiet of your kayak, you get a front-row seat to their natural habitat. You might spot a majestic osprey circling overhead before plummeting to snag a fish, or a great blue heron standing statuesquely at the water's edge, patiently waiting for its next meal. Kingfishers dart across the water with their distinctive chattering calls, and various ducks and geese paddle lazily along the banks. It's a birder's delight, offering a perspective you simply can't get from the shore.

Fellow Travelers: Dogs, Canoes, and Unique Styles

One of the joys of kayaking the Russian River in summer is sharing the experience with other river enthusiasts. It's a popular spot for families, friends, and even their four-legged companions. You'll often see happy dogs perched on the front of kayaks or canoes, ears flapping in the gentle breeze, sometimes even taking a joyful plunge into the cool water. And speaking of canoes, it's not just kayaks out there. Many people opt for classic canoes, some laden with picnic baskets and coolers, adding to the relaxed, communal atmosphere. There's a wonderful variety of watercraft, from inflatable rafts to stand-up paddleboards, each with its own unique "style" of enjoyment.

The Human Element and Unforgettable Moments

Beyond the wildlife and the diverse fleet of boats, the human element adds a special charm to a Russian River kayaking trip. You'll pass groups laughing and splashing, families enjoying a riverside picnic on a secluded beach, and individuals simply soaking in the tranquility. There's a shared sense of appreciation for this beautiful natural setting. As the afternoon sun begins to cast long shadows through the redwoods, you realize how effortlessly the hours have slipped by. Kayaking the Russian River in Guerneville during summer is more than just a paddle; it's an immersive experience that rejuvenates the spirit and creates lasting memories.

The Return to Benu: A Culinary Decade in Review

The Return to Benu: A Culinary Decade in Review

California Michelin Star San Francisco Bay Area

Benu Revisited: A Decade of Evolution and Refinement

Returning to Benu in 2025, a full decade after my initial visit in 2012, was less a trip down memory lane and more a journey into a re-imagined culinary landscape. My first visit to Benu was memorable, but the space, while refined, felt a touch more formal and perhaps a shade darker. The 2025 iteration, however, embraces a lighter, more contemporary aesthetic. The remodel has opened up the space, allowing natural light to play a more significant role. The color palette seems to have shifted towards softer grays, whites, and natural wood tones, creating an atmosphere that feels both sophisticated and remarkably serene. The tables, still generously spaced, contribute to a sense of intimacy without feeling isolated. There's a subtle warmth now, an invitation to settle in and truly savor the experience. It's a testament to thoughtful design, where every element contributes to a cohesive and comforting environment, setting the stage perfectly for the culinary artistry to unfold.

The Unfolding Narrative of the Menu

The "parade of small delicacies" that initiates the meal was, as before, a masterclass in precision and concentrated flavor. The iconic "Thousand-Year-Old Quail Egg" with preserved ginger, a dish I fondly recalled from my previous visit, was presented with even greater delicacy, its subtle complexities amplified. The "Xiao Long Bao," a signature, has undergone a subtle but impactful transformation. While the original was superb, this 2025 rendition, perhaps with a different filling or wrapper, felt even more refined, with a delicate balance of broth and filling.

Chef Lee's Enduring Vision: Benu's Confident Evolution

Chef Lee's commitment to a fixed tasting menu, an enduring hallmark of Benu, remains. And it is here that the true evolution became evident. While the foundational reverence for Korean and Cantonese influences is still palpable, the narrative woven through each course feels even more mature and nuanced. Gone are any lingering hints of a menu finding its footing; this is a confident and assured expression of culinary identity.

Xiao Long Bao with supreme soup

half-dried halibut with short grain rice

potato, leek, chrysanthemum

Beyond Expectation: Benu's Exquisite Honey Butter & Bread

Benu's house-made bread, impossibly crisp yet tender, finds its perfect match in the extraordinary honey butter. Infused with delicate ginseng and orange blossom, it's a sublime, unforgettable indulgence.

The Art of the Entrée: Surprising Delights

Later courses continued to impress. The roast quail, incredibly moist and flavorful, was complemented with maple and soy sauce – a truly indulgent bite. The ingenuity extended to the less traditional elements, like the mountain yam with beet, which brought a delightful and freshness to the heartier grilled beef rib.

roast quail with maple & soy sauce

roast quail, white stew of lettuce, peas & bacon

charcoal-grilled beef rib braised w pear, mountain yam, minari, beet

The perfect sauce for charcoal-grilled beef rib

A Continued Legacy of Excellence

My return to Benu in 2025 confirmed its status as a culinary titan. The remodeled interior enhances the dining experience, creating a more inviting and harmonious space. More importantly, Chef Corey Lee's vision continues to evolve, pushing the boundaries of contemporary Asian-inspired cuisine while maintaining a profound respect for tradition. It’s a testament to how a restaurant can mature and refine its offering, remaining at the pinnacle of fine dining. Benu in 2025 is not just a restaurant; it is an institution that consistently delivers an unforgettable symphony of flavors, textures, and hospitality.

strawberry, omija, rose, olive oil

milk pudding, salt, smoke, peat

grapefruit curd tart

mint

Atelier Crenn: Where Food Becomes Art and Storytelling

Atelier Crenn: Where Food Becomes Art and Storytelling

California Michelin Star San Francisco Bay Area

A Culinary Poem Unfolds

Atelier Crenn, in San Francisco, transcends traditional dining. Chef Dominique Crenn crafts a poetic culinary experience, where each dish tells a story. Driven by innovation and sustainability, the restaurant offers a multi-sensory journey, blending French culinary artistry with California's vibrant bounty. It's a place where food becomes art.

Kir Breton

A Kir Breton to begin. A white chocolate shell, whisper-thin, concealing the pure, pressed apple cider.

Kir Breton

Gougère

mornay & smoked trout roe/black truffle atop

Acorn

acron powder

Atelier Crenn transcends mere dining; it's a curated narrative.

Each course, meticulously crafted, reflects Dominique Crenn's poetic vision, drawing inspiration from nature and personal memories. The restaurant's commitment to sustainability and ethical sourcing elevates the experience, ensuring each ingredient contributes to a larger, harmonious story told on the plate.

Hakurei Turnip Oyster

Bluefin Tuna, Sesame & Kohlrabi

Scallop, Mandarin & Fish Sauce

Brioche & Herbs Butter

Potato & Vin Jaune

King Crab & Capers

French Onion Soup

Black Cod, Yogurt & Broccoli

Turbot Mousseline & Mussel

5 course dessert

Atelier Crenn's five-course dessert is a masterclass in balance. Each meticulously crafted course offers a symphony of flavors, never overwhelming the palate. From delicate creams to vibrant fruit accents, the progression is seamless. Textures dance harmoniously, creating a journey of sweet discovery. A testament to refined artistry, it's a sublime conclusion.

Green Goddess

Olive

Yuzu Custard

Pear & Champagne

Chocolates

The Atelier Crenn experience transcends exquisite cuisine. Chef Crenn's personal touch elevates the evening, as she graciously greets each table, offering a warm handshake and genuine conversation. Chef Crenn made history in November 2018, earning three Michelin Stars and solidifying her place as the first female chef in the US to reach this pinnacle. Her culinary prowess is undeniable. This intimate gesture transforms a meal into a cherished memory, a testament to her dedication to hospitality. It's a rare and beautiful moment, where culinary artistry meets heartfelt connection, leaving guests with a lasting impression of warmth and welcome.

Cyrus Restaurant Revisited: A Culinary Adventure in Geyserville

Cyrus Restaurant Revisited: A Culinary Adventure in Geyserville

Michelin Star Napa & Sonoma

The Bubble Lounge

Returning to Cyrus Restaurant in Geyserville feels like reuniting with an old friend—a friend who always has something new and exciting to share. Stepping into this culinary haven once again, I'm greeted by the familiar elegant ambiance that promises an evening of indulgence and discovery. It's a place where every visit feels like a special occasion, and this time is no different.

Our culinary adventure began in the first room, the Bubble Lounge. We were welcomed with a selection of cocktails alongside a playful display – a long plate of miniature canapés, each a delightful exploration of one of the five fundamental tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami. This felt like a lighthearted promise from the chefs, a hint that they would orchestrate a harmonious dance of flavors throughout the entire meal.

Canapés: (left to right)

Sweet: Garlic Chive Madeleine  |  Sour: Green Strawberry, Yogurt, Basil  |  Salty: Gougère with Comte Fondue  |  Bitter: Charred Spring Onion "Cannoli"  |  Umami: Bamboo Rice Ship, Sesame Yolk Jam, Seaweed Chocolate

Cyrus appetite

Kitchen Table

The next chapter of our culinary adventure unfolded – the kitchen table. Here, Chef Keane himself takes center stage, presenting a seven-course tasting menu at an angular, U-shaped counter. This intimate setting creates an almost cinematic experience, fostering a sense of connection with the culinary maestro as he unveils each course.

As I settle into my seat, I can't help but marvel at the menu, which seems to have undergone a transformation since my last visit. Chef Keane presents some of his most celebrated creations, including his signature billi bi, a French mussel soup infused with the essence of fennel. While some old favorites remain, there are also intriguing new additions that pique my curiosity. It's a testament to Cyrus's commitment to innovation and creativity, always striving to push the boundaries of culinary excellence.

Kitchen Table at Cyrus

kitchen table at Cyrus
White Asparagus, Ponzu, Candied Ginger

White Asparagus, Ponzu, Candied Ginger

Blue Fin Tuna, Plum, Sea Lettuce-Sansho Furikake

Blue Fin Tuna, Plum, Sea Lettuce-Sansho Furikake

Uni, Pea and Fermented Carrot Tart

Uni, Pea and Fermented Carrot Tart

"Oreo" Foie Gras Torchon, Black Garlic, Rhubarb

“Oreo” Foie Gras Torchon, Black Garlic, Rhubarb

Artichoke, Sake Lees, Lettuce Puree

Artichoke, Sake Lees, Lettuce Puree

Chawanmushi, Blue Crab Fava Bean Fondue, Yuzu Foam

Chawanmushi, Blue Crab Fava Bean Fondue, Yuzu Foam

Dining Room

Cyrus Restaurant's dining room experience is where the heart of the culinary journey unfolds. Here, the main course isn't just a single dish, it's a carefully orchestrated symphony of flavors designed to tantalize your taste buds. The true magic lies in the artistry. Cyrus' chefs are storytellers on a plate. They utilize innovative techniques and unexpected combinations to create dishes that are not just delicious, but visually stunning as well.

Sobacha Epi

Sobacha Epi, House Cultured Butter

Soba Wrapped Black Cod, Ginger Shiso Dashi

Soba Wrapped Black Cod, Ginger Shiso Dashi

Poussin, Miso Morels, Creamed Ramps and Fava Greens

Poussin, Miso Morels, Creamed Ramps and Fava Greens

Sonomo Coast Lamb, Creamed Corn, Squash, Green Tomato

Brillat Savarin, Strawberry, Fennel Pollen Brioche

Brillat Savarin, Strawberry, Fennel Pollen Brioche

Black Lime Cake, Poached Aloe, Hearts of Palm

Non-Alcoholic Pairing Menus

Their non-alcoholic pairing menu offers a creative and delicious selection of drinks that complement the flavors of their dishes, making every bite and sip a memorable one. Cyrus' beverage team crafts these pairings with the same meticulousness as their renowned wine list. They consider the ingredients, textures, and flavor profiles of each dish, ensuring a harmonious symphony for your taste buds.

Sakura "Rose Champagne"

Sakura "Rose Champagne" - coconut, white sesame, cherry blossom, lime

Raspberry Refresher - rosé raspberry coulis, hibiscus & rooibos tea, golden balsamic

Carrot Souffle

Carrot Soufflé - caraway, orange blossom, turmeric, sunflower seed

Apple Martini

Apple Martini - Pink lady apple, sunomono cucumber, shio-koji, blistered shishito

Tea old fashioned - keemun & oolong, ginseng, miso, burnt sugar

Pineapple Sunrise - golden raisin, chamomile, honey, balsamic float

Mignardises

Of course, no visit to Cyrus would be complete without indulging in dessert. 🙂

  • Sweet: Strawberry Sake Lees Mousse, Almond Sable
  • Sour: Sudachi and Olive Oil Tartlet, Shiso Meringue
  • Salty: Black Sesame Bon Bon, Toasted Rice Ganache
  • Bitter: Earl Grey Canele
  • Umami: Dark Chocolate Seaweed Coquette, Sweet Soy

Chocolate Room - A secret dessert closet?

Cyrus's meal concludes in grand fashion at the Chocolate Room. This hidden gem offers a dramatic finale. Imagine a cascading wall of chocolate – a feast for the eyes before you indulge in the house-made hot chocolate.

What truly sets Cyrus apart is not just the food, but the overall dining experience. From the moment you walk through the door, you're greeted with warmth and hospitality that makes you feel like a cherished guest. The staff at Cyrus are attentive and knowledgeable, always on hand to offer recommendations or answer any questions you may have. It's this personal touch that elevates the dining experience from merely enjoyable to truly unforgettable.

In conclusion, returning to Cyrus Restaurant in Geyserville is like embarking on a culinary adventure—one that never fails to delight and surprise. With its innovative cuisine, impeccable service, and inviting ambiance, Cyrus continues to set the standard for fine dining in Sonoma County. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a returning patron like myself, Cyrus never fails to impress, leaving you eagerly anticipating your next visit.

 

A Culinary Convergence: SingleThread x Den Collaboration

A Culinary Convergence: SingleThread x Den Collaboration

Michelin Star Napa & Sonoma

SingleThread: A Symphony of Seasons and Evolution

In October 2023, the culinary world held its breath as Healdsburg's three-Michelin-starred SingleThread, known for its exquisite farm-to-table Japanese-inspired kaiseki, announced a special collaboration with Tokyo's playful and inventive two-Michelin-starred Den. This highly anticipated event promised a rare convergence of two distinct, yet complementary, gastronomic philosophies, creating a dining experience that was, by all accounts, nothing short of remarkable.

Stepping into SingleThread is always an immersion in omotenashi, the Japanese art of hospitality, and for this collaboration, that meticulous care was amplified by the anticipation of Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa's vibrant influence. The usual serene elegance of the dining room seemed to hum with an added layer of excitement. Diners settled in, ready for a journey that would blend SingleThread's refined seasonality with Den's signature wit and boundary-pushing techniques.

Early Autumn in Sonoma

While an exact course-by-course menu for this exclusive engagement remains a cherished memory for those fortunate enough to attend, the essence of the collaboration was palpable. One could envision SingleThread's iconic "first course" — an elaborate spread of countless delicate bites showcasing Sonoma's bounty — subtly infused with Den's whimsical touches. Perhaps a pristine Dungeness crab preparation from SingleThread found its surprising counterpart in Den's renowned "Dentucky Fried Chicken," here reimagined with local ingredients and an elevated presentation, maintaining its playful heart while adhering to SingleThread's rigorous standards.

Kinmedai

Warm Silken Tofu

Roasted Heirloom Tomato, Jimmy Nardello, and Yuzu Kosho

Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa

DEN's Playful Precision Meets SingleThread's Harvest Heart

The collaborative spirit was evident from the very first courses. Den's famous "Dentucky Fried Chicken" made a delightful appearance, its perfectly crispy exterior giving way to succulent, flavorful chicken. It was a testament to Hasegawa's ability to elevate comfort food to an art form. This playful indulgence was perfectly balanced by SingleThread's contributions, showcasing their farm's bounty.

Dentucky Fried Chicken

Sticky Rice, Plum, and Red Shiso

Den Salad/Badger-Flame Beets, Tomatoes, Salanova, and Potato

Fried Summer Squash

DEN's Playful Precision Meets SingleThread's Harvest Heart

The progression of dishes felt like a journey, weaving between the two culinary philosophies. The evening wasn't just about two chefs cooking together; it was a thoughtful conversation between two distinct, yet complementary, culinary voices. Chef Hasegawa's signature humor and unexpected twists found a beautiful counterpoint in Chef Connaughton's meticulous respect for seasonal ingredients, creating a menu that was both surprising and deeply satisfying.

Nodoguro/Summer Squash, Goma Mochi, Zucchini Herb

Sonoma Wagyu/Apple, Kohirabi, & Alba Truffle

Luna Rice "Deuxnabe"

Matsutake, Burdock, and Short Rib

Brentwood Corn, Braised Kombu, and Farm Herbs

Yuzu & Cucumber

Passionfruit & Melon

Chestnut & Shiro-an

Beyond the Plate: The Singlethread Experience

What made this collaboration truly special was not just the exceptional food, but the evident camaraderie between the chefs and their teams. There was a palpable sense of shared respect and a mutual desire to create something extraordinary for their guests. This event was more than just a pop-up; it was a demonstration of how culinary innovation thrives when great minds come together, pushing boundaries while honoring tradition. The Chase Sapphire presentation allowed for an accessible yet exclusive experience, solidifying its place as a truly memorable event in the 2023 culinary calendar. This collaboration was a testament to the power of shared passion and the boundless possibilities of gastronomy.

A Geyserville Gem | Cyrus restaurant

A Geyserville Gem | Cyrus restaurant

Michelin Star Napa & Sonoma

The Bubble Lounge

We have been anxious to try the long awaited reopening of Cyrus in Geyserville, CA. The restaurant is surrounding by Aperture Winery vineyards. After checking in,  you are greeted by a warm and friendly host and free to choose your seats in the Bubble Lounge (more choices if you arrive early). We were lucky enough to pick the high top seats facing the vineyard to enjoy the marvelous views.

Cyrus Restaurant

Kitchen Table

Next we were guided into the beautiful kitchen where you are seated in a U shaped kitchen table with 12 seats. Chef Keane created a kitchen table dining experience that feels fun for everyone and exudes a casual atmosphere. Guests are free to walk around and chat with staff during the time at the kitchen table. We had fun seeing all the professional equipment and the chefs were excited to show us their cooking techniques.

Kitchen Table at Cyrus

Chef Douglas Keane Cyrus

Chef Douglas Keane in Kitchen table

Gazpacho Consomme at Cyrus

Gazpacho "Consomme"

Oyster Corn Kimchee Granite at Cyrus

Oyster, Corn, Kimchee Granite

Managatsuo, Plums, Ginger-Shiso Dashi Gelee at Cyrus

Managatsuo, Plums, Ginger-Shiao Dashi Gelee

Lobster, Avocado, Thai Basil, Melon at Cyrus

Lobster, Avocado, Thai Basil Drressing, Melon

Artichoke, Sake Lees, Lettuce Puree, Benitade at Cyrus

Artichoke, Sake Lees, Lettuce Puree, Benitade

"Chicken and Egg"

Dining Room

After the kitchen table we were guided to a spacious dining room with beautiful views of a water feature against the backdrop of the vineyard grounds. The progression of different seating areas really add to the overall dining experience and sets it apart from other fine dining restaurants. Each dish showcases a delicious combination of flavors and presentations. I absolutely adore the glassware and plates they chose. We ate with our eyes first with every course presentation.

Halibut, coconut milk galangal, finger lime, lychee at Cyrus
Foie Gras Torchon at Cyrus

Foie Gras Torchon

Pampered Abalone Corn-Shio Koji Broth Uni form at Cyrus

Pampered Abalone Corn-Shio Koji Broth Uni Form

Filet of Beef, Green Tomatoes, Swiss Chard, Smoked Jus at Cyrus

Filet of Beef, Green Tomatoes, Swiss Chard, Smoked Jus at Cyrus

Andante Dairy Melange, Pluot, Nasturtium, Shokupan

Andante Dairy Melange, Pluot, Nasturtium, Shokupan

Melon and Lemon Verbena Sorbet

Melon and Lemon Verbena Sorbet

Toasted Sourdough Custard, fig leaf, husk cherry

Toasted Sourdough Custard, fig leaf, husk cherry

Non-Alcoholic Pairing Menus

Cyrus offered one of the creative and delicious non-alcoholic pairing menus we'd experienced any in the world. (The only one comparable is Aviary in Chicago.) Most restaurants opt to offer pre-bottled/pre-made juices but the beverage director (also named Cyrus!) created inventive drinks with fresh ingredients that just so happened to not have alcohol --he didn't just phone it in. Each beverage matched the course it was design for and added to the dish. I was really impressed with the level of thoughtfulness and detail that this pairing menu provided.

The Spritz blackberry, gooseberry, juniper, elderflower, lime

The Spritz Blackberry, gooseberry, juniper, elderflower, lime

Fizz Blueberry, Earl Grey, Shiitake-verjus, Thyme

Raspberry Refresher - rosé raspberry coulis, hibiscus & rooibos tea, golden balsamic

Golden Raisin Cordial Stone Fruit Gastrique, Chamomile, Lavender

Tea Old Fashioned Oolong, Burnt suger, Miso-cured Orange

Sweet Coconut Horchata, Oak Milk, Sake Lees, Mintc

Tea old fashioned - keemun & oolong, ginseng, miso, burnt sugar

Chocolate Room

After dessert you are led into the Chocolate Room. The hidden entrance to the room was a fun surprise and we were immediately met with a huge chocolate fountain upon entering. What a beautiful and one-of-a-kind concept! The levitating platform that held our chocolate treats was also visually stunning. Cyrus is definitely worthy of a special journey.

Black Sesame Dragee Brownie at Chocolate room
Nisei Restaurant 二世 | Modern Japanese fine dining

Nisei Restaurant 二世 | Modern Japanese fine dining

Michelin Star San Francisco Bay Area

When you first walked into Nisei you can feel the ambiance was elegant & sleek with modern Japanese touches. We ordered the tasting menu which features 13 courses plus an add-on caviar & banana dorayaki and a final round of wagashi. Service was warm and well-intentioned and the food was well thought out and prepared. Very enjoyable meal.

Appetizer

The "appetizer" rounds we got were in courses 1-4, which were nori cotton candy, tako sunomono, Shingiku/ pea shoots in shiro dashi, and dry aged shima aji.

Entree

The "entree" rounds followed in courses 5-10, which were a lobster in paitan broth,  cold chawanmushi, kobujime hirame/strawberry three ways/micro shiso, abalone tempura, squash blossom, and grilled unagi.

caviar at Nisei
caviar at Nisei
Paitan broth, lobster, grilled baby corn, marigold at Nisei
Cold chawanmushi, cherry tomato, seaweed, trout roe at Nisei

As each dish arrived at our table, we were explained clearly and in detail what each was and contained.

Kobujime hirame, strawberry three ways, micro shiso at Nisei
Kobujime hirame, strawberry three ways, micro shiso at Nisei
Sweet corn takoyaki, C&S corn, black truffle at Nisei
Squash blossom, tsukune, summer squash, tamago at Nisei

Diners have a glimpse of the kitchen.

Nisei restaurant
Unagi, eggplant, wasabi, kinome at Nisei

Dessert

Macha. shiitake. honey
White chocolate. dashi. caviar
Amazake. blueberry. bee pollen
Sweet corn "takoyaki". C&S corn. black truffle
Assorted wagashi

Matcha, shiitake, honey at Nisei
White chocolate, dashi, caviar at Nisei
Amazake, blueberry, bee pollen at Nisei
Sweet corn takoyaki, C&S corn, black truffle at Nisei
Assorted wagashi at Nisei San Francisco
Big Sur California

Big Sur California

California United States

Big Sur is probably one of the most famous and celebrated California destinations in terms of natural beauty, but for various reasons it’s never been high on my to-go list. Partly because the pandemic has limited my travel options, and partly because I finally put in the time to research the area, I was finally curious enough and took a 3-night trip there in early May, 2021. Well, now I’m a believer!

6 Big Sur Attractions You Must Not Miss!

Big Sur consists of a roughly 30-mile stretch along the California coast on the famed Highway 1 between Carmel and San Simeon. Here are some of the places we visited on this trip from north to south.

1. Garrapata State Park Bluff Trail

This is a stretch of mostly flat trails on the bluff along the coast. On the trail there is a cute little bridge that crosses the Soberanes Creek, and you can enjoy awesome views of large waves crashing against the sea stacks and cliffs.

2. The Calla Lily Valley

Did you know calla lilies grow naturally in the wild in swampy areas? I’ve seen calla lily patches in the past on other hikes but never made the connection. Look for “Garrapata State Beach Parking” on Google Maps (and some cars parked on the dirt patch on either side of Highway 1). After you park, look for the “Garrapata State Park” sign and you’ll see a narrow trail that goes down towards the beach. Head north to get to the little valley full of wild calla lilies! I think peak bloom season may be earlier in March or April, because many of the lilies we saw were already wilting/dried up. At the valley of the lilies there are some steps that go up to a trail that takes you back onto the highway, at a point a bit north of where you parked. Here you can get a full view of the valley of the lilies from the top and walk back along Highway 1 to your car (or you can go back down and back-track on the trail, and go further south where the trail leads to a stretch of beaches).

3. Bixby Creek Bridge

This is probably one of the most iconic sights associated with Big Sur. The bridge was built in the 1930s and is quite impressive. There are some areas both north and south of the bridge where you can pull over to get a view. This is a view north of the bridge at “Castle Rock Viewpoint”.

4. Buzzard’s Roost Trail (in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park – entrance fee required)

There are a lot of trails (and camping) in this huge state park, but this was the only hike we did here. This trail starts at Big Sur Lodge near a small creek, and is about 4 mile roundtrip (took us a little over 2 hours). You slowly zig-zag uphill towards Buzzard’s Roost view point, and there are many pretty wildflowers along the way. You can then make a loop from the top to get back down, though we ended up going up and coming down the same way. It was still quite foggy when we made it to the peak on our morning hike, so we did not get the famed view of the coast from the top.

5. Pfeiffer Beach (entrance fee required)

The Keyhole Arch at this beach may be the second most famous sight associated with Big Sur – it’s a popular sunset photography spot, as the sunlight streams directly though the keyhole at sunset, especially during the winter months around the winter solstice. My picture of the Keyhole Arch here is from 2016 (when we made a detour on a drive from SF to LA). On this most recent May 2021 trip, it was so windy on the beach the wind-whipped sand bit into our exposed skin like a million little needles. We quickly snapped a few pictures and ran back to the car, and didn’t even get a proper view of the Keyhole Arch (which really was just a few more steps north along the beach). There are a few other arches and cool rock formations here, but the Keyhole Arch gets all the glory because of the sunset phenomenon. Pfeiffer beach is also known as the Purple Beach, as the sand is purple from the manganese garnet deposits that wash down onto the beach from the surrounding hills. To get to this beach, take Sycamore Canyon Road (which requires a sharp right turn if you’re coming southbound) off Highway 1. It’s a 2-mile, very narrow, not really paved, road with turnouts that leads to two parking areas for the beach. Both parking areas are a very short walk to the beach. 

6. McWay Falls (Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park – entrance fee required)

A short ¼ -mile walk from the parking lot leads to a deck overlooking the beautiful McWay Cove and the McWay Falls. It is a small waterfall and we didn’t see it at first. There are a few other (longer) trails in this park, but they were all closed during our visit, though may be due to recent fires/rains rather than the pandemic? We also noticed a lot of people parked off Highway 1 just before the park entrance, so you can get a view of the cove and waterfall on the highway without actually entering the park. 


Where to Eat?

There aren’t a lot of dining options at Big Sur, but enough that if you wanted to eat at a different place for lunch and dinner each day over a 3-4 day trip, it is still possible. Here are two of my favorites on this trip.

Coast Big Sur (49901 CA-1, Big Sur, CA 93920)

Art gallery and café, you can get a nice lunch here and enjoy a beautiful view of the Pacific Coast with your meal. Don’t forget to try one of the soft-serve options for dessert!

Big Sur Bakery (47540 CA-1, Big Sur, CA 93920)

This a good breakfast/lunch spot nestled amongst pretty fruit trees and gardens, flanked by a couple small art galleries. They have also recently started (restarted?) serving dinner starting at 5pm. This fried chicken was very juicy and flavorful, and the purple sauce was a horseradish crème fraiche, and it was really, really good!


Where to Stay?

Big Sur Lodge (Family friendly)

This is where we stayed on this trip. Situated right in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, staying here also gives you complimentary day passes to all 3 state parks in Big Sur (Pfeiffer Big Sur, Andrew Molera, and Julia Pfeiffer Burns). All the units are cottages of different sizes. We chose the Kitchenette Cottage that had a bedroom with a queen bed, a living room with a pull-out couch, and a kitchen that included a refrigerator, stove, microwave, a small coffee maker, a toaster, and basic kitchen supplies (pot, pan, dishes, utensils — bring your own cooking oil, salt/pepper). There is a café at the main lodge, but the main restaurant was still closed due to the pandemic. The accommodations here are basic but clean and comfortable; there is no Wi-Fi, and cellphone reception was spotty at best, but the location was great and allowed easy exploration of the area.

Glen Oaks Big Sur (Adults preferred)

I would’ve liked to stay here during this trip, but by the time I found this place there weren’t good options for the dates I wanted, since most units are double-occupancies only. The lodging options range from hotel rooms of various sizes to cabins and cottages with kitchenettes. All the rooms and cabins/cottages have views of or decks that look into the woods, the décor seems rustic but modern, and overall these accommodations are probably luxurious compared to Big Sur Lodge. And all rooms have Wi-Fi! Haha.


Other Practical Tips

  1. Download offline Google map of the area. As alluded to above, cellphone reception is overall pretty minimal in Big Sur, and most of the restaurants we went to didn’t offer Wi-Fi either. Download an offline map before your trip and you’ll still be able to search for various sights and navigate between sites during your stay.
  2. Fill up your gas tank before you get to Big Sur. There are gas stations in Big Sur but they are understandably pricey, as it can’t be easy to truck gasoline into Big Sur.
  3. Carmel is only about 25 miles north of Big Sur (about a 40-min drive), so one of the nights we drove up there for dinner. It makes a nice side-trip if you have a longer Big Sur stay (or want different dining options), also a good option if you want to restock groceries for a longer stay. Just remember this stretch of Highway 1 does not have street lights! So definitely drive carefully if you’re getting back to Big Sur after dark. 

 

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SingleThread Farm’s Usu-zan Hot Pot Experience

SingleThread Farm’s Usu-zan Hot Pot Experience

Michelin Star Napa & Sonoma

SingleThread: Beyond Just a Room

Our stay at SingleThread Inn on the night of March 7, 2021, was nothing short of magical, transforming my birthday celebration into an unforgettable experience. Joined by our dear friends Joyce, who flew in from Los Angeles, we were ready for a much-anticipated culinary adventure, even amidst the ongoing pandemic.

Upon entering our room at SingleThread Inn, the immediate impression was one of unparalleled thoughtful luxury. It felt less like a hotel room and more like a meticulously curated personal haven. A beautiful, handwritten birthday card was prominently displayed, an incredibly touching and personal touch that instantly made us feel cherished. Beside it, an exquisite spread awaited: decadent desserts, a bottle of fine wine, and a state-of-the-art matcha machine. Every detail, from the elegant presentation to the bespoke amenities, signaled an extraordinary stay.

SingleThread's Rooftop Oasis

The rooftop garden at SingleThread is an absolute oasis, offering a serene escape with panoramic views of Healdsburg. More than just a pretty space, it's a living larder, contributing fresh herbs, flowers, and even some vegetables directly to the restaurant's exquisite dishes.

A Birthday Celebration at SingleThread Farm: An Usu-Zan Dream

SingleThread’s innovative response to the times, their "Usu-Zan" tent setting, promised an evening of both safety and unparalleled immersion. From the moment we entered the Usu-Zan tent, we were transported. It wasn't just a tent; it was a meticulously crafted environment designed to evoke the serenity of a Japanese forest. The attention to detail was astounding, from the traditional furnishings that invited a sense of calm to the artfully placed greenery that blurred the lines between indoors and out. It was a testament to SingleThread's commitment to creating an all-encompassing experience, even within the constraints of the time. The ambiance was intimate and exclusive, making our celebratory dinner feel even more special and personal.

Late Winter in Sonoma

Inspired by winter in Hokkaido, SingleThread Farm presented a special 9-course hot pot dinner on March 7, 2021. Available exclusively to Inn guests as part of their Usu-zan outdoor dining experience (which had reopened on February 11th and continued through March 31st), this unique offering featured ingredients sourced from their farm, Sonoma, and Hokkaido.

The Ethos: Farm to Table, Reimagined

The first course features an array of tiny bites, artfully presented on a bed of flowers and branches from the restaurant's farm.

The heart of SingleThread's philosophy lies in its deep connection to the land. The menu was a direct reflection of what Katina Connaughton's 24-acre farm yielded. This wasn't merely "farm-to-table" as a trend, but a profound commitment to seasonality and hyper-local sourcing. Over 70% of the produce, along with honey, eggs, and olive oil, came directly from their farm, harvested daily to ensure peak freshness and flavor. This dedication ensured that every dish was a vibrant snapshot of the spring awakening in Sonoma.

Late Winter in Sonoma

Ezo-Hotate & West Coast Scallop | Seaweed Butter, Winter Citrus, Daikon

Uni Ikuradon | Malted Potato, Hokkaido Uni, Smoked Roe

Black Cod Ibushi-Gin

King Trumpet

Purple Barley Crepes

Shio Koji Vinaigrette

Hokkaido Milk Bread

SingleThread Inn's Exclusive Hot Pot Offering

The Usu-Zan experience offered a unique twist on SingleThread's renowned tasting menu: a hot pot centerpiece. That evening, we indulged in the Wagyu Shabu-Shabu hot pot, a truly exquisite choice. The thinly sliced, marbled Wagyu beef was presented impeccably, alongside an array of seasonal vegetables and delicate broths. The joy of swishing the tender beef and vibrant produce through the simmering broth was a sensory delight. Each bite was a harmonious blend of flavors and textures, showcasing the pristine quality of the ingredients that SingleThread is celebrated for.

Hokkaido-Gyu Shabu Shabu

Farm Vegetables & Tofu

Barrel Aged Ponzu & Goma Dare

Wagyu Consomme | Braised Short Rib & Carmelized Barley

Hobayaki Vension | Fried Sunchoke, Hazelnut Miso

Mandarin Kakigori | Grapefruit Confit, Pastis, Sassafrass

Cheers to friendship!

A Poetic Pumpkin Finale

The spotlight belonged to dessert: a whole orange pumpkin nestled in a mossy bed. Its roasted, sweet flesh was expertly spooned into a ceramic dish, paired with a quenelle of burnt orange sherbet. This bittersweet, penultimate course beautifully symbolized the resilience and journey of the restaurant and its peers through recent times.

Barley Pumpkin

Roasted Japanese pumpkin

Burnt Orange Sherbet, Barley Malt, Pumpkin Seed Praline

A Birthday Beyond Expectation

Celebrating my birthday at SingleThread Farm, within the unique Usu-Zan setting, was an experience that truly exceeded all our expectations. It wasn't just a meal; it was an immersive journey that engaged all our senses, a testament to culinary innovation and heartfelt hospitality during challenging times. Sharing this extraordinary evening with Joyce made it even more memorable. SingleThread proved once again why it stands as a pinnacle of fine dining and bespoke accommodation, leaving us with cherished memories of a truly special celebration.

p.s. SingleThread offers a delightful surprise: komatsuna seeds tucked within the menu. This thoughtful gesture allows guests to take a piece of the farm home, fostering a deeper connection to their philosophy and the seasonal bounty they champion. It was a truly unexpected and charming discovery!

AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

Napa & Sonoma

Auberge du Soleil

180 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford, CA 94573
(707) 963-1211
www.aubergedusoleil.com
American

auberge-du-soleil_restauran

BRUNCH MENU

Bread & Butter

muffins, house made pastries & artisanal breads

auberge-du-soleil_bread

Beginnings

potato gnocchi, wild Mushrooms, pea shoots, parmesan nage
auberge-du-soleil_gnocchi

Oysters

auberge-du-soleil_oyster1

auberge-du-soleil_oyster

Sustenance

duck confit hash, slow cooked farm eggs, mâche, red wine sauce

auberge-du-soleil_duck

Dessert

crispy filo wrapped chocolate dumplings
tarragon ice cream, arbequina olive oil
auberge-du-soleil_dessert

MANRESA

MANRESA

Michelin Star San Francisco Bay Area

Manresa

320 Village Ln, Los Gatos, CA 95030
(408) 354-4330
www.manresarestaurant.com
American

Chef’s Menu – 2013

After enjoying a fabulous meal in 2009, we returned with a party of five for a winter menu. Menus change with the seasons. I must say the service continues to excel. Food comprised of nine dishes plus desserts. Each course was a work of art, visually and in its preparation and taste.

Amuse Bouche

red pepper and black olive madeleines
manresa_amusebouche_2013

manresa_amuse_bouche

Bread

house-baked bread
manresa_bread_2013

First Course

local milk panna cotta with abalone
manresa_1st_course

Second Course

manresa_sashimi

Third Course

locally grown greens, flowers and herbs and “soil”
manresa_veggie

manresa_veggies

Fourth Course

manresa_fish

Fifth Course

manresa_popcorn

Sixth Course

manresa_soup

Seventh Course

manresa_duck

Eigth Course

manresa_steak

manresa_smith_apple

Ninth Course

manresa_dessert2013

Petit Fours

manresa_petit_fours_2013

January Menu

manresa_menu_2013

LA FOLIE

LA FOLIE

San Francisco Bay Area

La Folie

2316 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 776-5577
www.lafolie.com
French

CHEF’S FIVE COURSE MENU

We ordered the 5 course piggy menu and were STUFFED. You don’t want to ruin your expensive meal by overeating! Presentation is beautiful. The dessert course was probably the least outstanding.

Bread

french baguette
la-folie_bread

Amuse Bouche

la-folie_amuse_bouche

egg yolk with leek cream soup
la-folie_egg_york

Osetra Caviar

la-folie_caviar

Brentwood Farms Sweet Corn Soup

lobster, truffle, crispy sweetbreads
la-folie_truffle_soup

la-folie_truffle-soup

Seared Day Boat Scallop & Crispy Sweetbreads

on nantais carrot puree, truffle vinaigrette
la-folie_scallop

Quail and Squab

stuffed with mushrooms, wrapped in crispy potato strings, truffled jus
la-folie_quail

Seasonal Sorbets

mixed berries sorbet and yuzu granite, passion fruit sorbet cannoli
la_folie_dessert

Petit Fours

chocolate plantain, canele de bourdeaux, madeleines with brandied cherries, apricot pate de fruit
la-folie_petit_fours