The Global Quest Begins
The Kumano Kodo Way, with a history spanning over a thousand years, connects the 3 Grand Shrines on the Kii Peninsula: Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社), Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社), and Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社). This ancient pilgrimage route, once trod by emperors, monks, and pilgrims, invites you to follow in their footsteps, traversing mountains, forests, and ancient temples that emanate a unique energy.
This two-day, mid-September walk on the Kumano Kodo was my final step toward becoming a Dual Pilgrim. After finishing the Camino de Santiago in 2024, I completed the required ∼7 km trek from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha and visited the two other Grand Shrines, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha, to earn the certificate.
Bus Transfer to the Hosshinmon-oji Trailhead
Solitude in the Cedar Forest
After the short bus ride, we arrived at the Hosshinmon-oji bus stop. We began our beautiful walk towards Kumano Hongu Taisha, a journey of approximately ∼7 kilometers, completing the most famous section of the route on foot. The warm, steep climb smelled heavily of damp earth and cedar. Since the trail was so quiet in mid-September, we barely saw anyone except a few other travelers from overseas. The path felt deeply solitary, a stark change from the easy camaraderie of the Camino.
Hosshinmon-oji → Inabizuka-oji → Mizunomi-oji → Fushio-oji → Haraido-oji → Kumano Hongu Taisha
The walk from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha is considered the most scenic and easiest section of the Nakahechi route. The path goes through small villages, then enters the forest before finally arriving at Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Be sure to bring enough lunch, snacks (trail food), and water! Although there are rest stops along the way, there are no vending machines. Along the Kumano Kodo, you'll find locals selling drinks or food. They often use small, covered shelves where you can pay for items yourself using an honor system.
Along the path, there are not only large tea plantations but also many fruit trees. Signage along the Nakahechi route is very clear, often marked with bright ribbons (like pink or other vibrant colors) placed on the ground.
The trail mainly features gradual ascents and descents. The uphill portions often involve walking over areas where tree roots are crossed or covered with stones.
Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine 熊野本宮大社
Kumano Hongu Taisha is dedicated to the gods of nature, especially those of the rivers and trees. Through a blend of Shinto and Buddhist beliefs, this central deity is also seen as a manifestation of the Amida Buddha.
Visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine is a deeply rewarding experience after completing the pilgrimage. Once you've collected all the necessary stamps, present your stamp book at the pilgrim office for verification and to receive a certificate. Take this certificate to the shrine, and they'll honor your accomplishment with a special taiko ceremony, where you get to hit the drum. You will also receive a unique wooden shelf, reserved only for those who have completed both the Kumano Kodo and the Camino de Santiago routes.
Triumph: The Taiko's Booming Echo
The sight of Kumano Hongu Taisha—with its massive, solemn gates—was a breathtaking culmination. Collecting the final shuin was the last step. The most moving moment followed: the celebratory, booming rhythm of the taiko drums, a primal triumph that shook the ground. After the ceremony, I was presented with a beautiful, symbolic shell from the temple. This artifact is now a tangible link between the cedar forests of Japan and the coastline of Galicia, Spain.
Kumano Nachi Taisha 熊野那智大社
Kumano Hayatama Taisha 熊野速玉大社
The ancient Kumano Hayatama Taisha shrine offers a beautifully peaceful experience. We visited on our second day and were pleased to find it wasn't crowded, allowing for quiet reflection. Be sure to get your stamp here; it's a vital step for those aiming to receive the dual pilgrim certificate for completing both the Kumano Kodo and Shikoku Henro routes.
World Heritage Sister Routes: Dual Pilgrim Certificate & 20th Anniversary Gold Shell
The pilgrimage passport requires following a designated route and collecting all the official stamps. The Kumano Kodo and Spain's Camino de Santiago are the only two World Heritage pilgrimage routes in the world, making them Sister Routes. If you complete the designated sections of both, you can receive a Dual Pilgrim Certificate. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Kumano Kodo's World Heritage designation, and anyone who completes the Dual Pilgrim challenge will receive a golden scallop shell.










